Don't be scared of Retinol

 

 

Anti-aging, anti-acne, increased cell turnover, softer lines, better collagen production, improved skin elasticity? Now that we have your attention, shall we talk about retinol, the magic ingredient that’s been on everyone’s lips for the past few years?

Despite the fact that it’s been recommended by dermatologists and experts, there are still numerous people in beauty circles who frown suspiciously when they hear the word retinol. They either tried it and stopped using it in panic after a few days because of minor redness, or they picked up negative reviews and are hence reluctant to give it a proper chance. But all is fair in love and war, right?

First things first: retinol has been successfully researched since the 1960’s and is still considered to be an undisputed wrinkle-killer in skincare today. A form of vitamin A, it stimulates cell turnover, meaning it prompts cells to work better and behave as young as possible. As a result, collagen and elastin production are boosted and - well, you probably know what that means. However, there is more than that to retinol: the powerhouse has also been proven to help with skin discoloration, acne and dryness. It is considered to be the only (!) active ingredient that can help with sun-related skin damage. Incidentally, this is the main reason why I start a multi-week retinol treatment every autumn, which in turn reliably reduces my wrinkles (urgent, I've cracked 30!) and evens out my complexion. In clever formulations, retinol is in encapsulated form (check out brands like U Beauty or Shani Darden), which allows it to be released extra gently and only where the skin needs it. 

And to all who have had bad experiences: keep going, skin takes time to get used to retinol, so start with 0.1 or 0.3 percent. To begin with, apply a thin layer of your product of choice (see my favorites below) every other evening and don't forget to follow-up with a moisturizer. Always wear SPF during the day, as the active ingredient makes the skin sensitive to light. Now observe your skin, adjust the routine if necessary; you have to get a feeling for retinol and stick with it. Once you get the time and routine right, you’ll be able to put doubts - and wrinkles - aside.

 

Our Colleague Kathrin Käsemann reveals her favorite products and gives tips:

 

For beginners:

 

Oskia
Retinoid Sleep Serum Level 1 - 0.2%

Get into the retinol game particularly gently with this serum, as it contains only 0.2% retinoid. It systematically supports a firmer, youthful and more even-looking complexion. The treatment comes in different concentrations, but always contains OSKIA's innovative super-nutrient retinoid complex (retinoid, vitamins C and E and pro-vitamin D3) with cellular nutrients, botanical actives and important antioxidants. The formulation is non-greasy and deep-acting and is always applied before the usual night care.

 

Drunk Elephant
A-Gloei Maretinol Oil

 There's 0.5 percent retinol in this vegan anti-aging face oil, making it perfect for getting started. The gentle formulation refines and smooths imperfections and signs of aging. A-Gloei™ gives even skin tone and promotes natural radiance, while ceramides strengthen the skin barrier for visibly firmer skin. Enriched with 100% virgin marula oil, rich in valuable antioxidants and omega acids, intensely moisturizes, soothes redness and restores skin to a balanced state. #getdrunk

 

Tip: If you do well with this product, you can switch to Drunk Elephant's A-Passioni Retinol Cream after just a few weeks. This has a higher dosage of 1.0% and primarily mitigates photodamage to the skin.

 

 

 

Murad
Resurgence Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Masks

 

 

Yes, even eye patches are now available with retinol benefits. Developed with physician and TikTok star Dr. Zion Ko, these high-quality, extra-large specimens instantly deliver a retinol boost that virtually erases wrinkles, visibly tightens eyes and leaves them looking ultra-refreshed. So it's ideal when you're in a hurry and want to look like you're fresh from the facialist for an event.

"Murad is a leader when it comes to retinol, and these bio-cellulose masks offer a new level to retinol delivery by locking in 100% of the ingredients - meaning you get more ingredients for your money." - Dr. Zion Ko.

 

 

For Retinol Pros:

Paula's Choice
Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment

Here to one of my favorite brands with incredibly potent yet tolerable products: Paula's Choice. Inside this treatment is a combination of a very high 1% retinol concentration, antioxidants, skin-soothing and healing ingredients that stimulate cell renewal and smooth skin. A lightweight formulation that absorbs quickly but has a visible and intense effect. Free of essential oils, nanoparticles and sulfates.

 

Shani Darden

Retinol Reform™
Anti-Aging Facial Serum

Shani Darden, the Hollywood skincare expert and her eponymous brand are hyped for a reason. This multitasking anti-aging serum is one of her best sellers. It combines firming retinol with brightening lactic acid to visibly soften fine lines and wrinkles, even out the complexion, smooth texture, and make skin more radiant in just 14 days. The gentle, yet effective, time-release formula delivers steady encapsulated retinol throughout the night to minimize the irritation of traditional retinol - while transforming skin for the better.

 

Sunday Riley
A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum

A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum shines with a very special formulation: 5% retinoid esters, 1% liposomally encapsulated retinol and 0.5% blue-green algae with natural retinoid-like activity. For a lasting, deep-acting effect. Encapsulated CoQ10 also helps rejuvenate the appearance, while Hawaiian honey, bisabolol, cactus extract and ginger soothe the skin for a balanced complexion. Sunday Riley has long been one of my top brands because of their focus on science and botanicals.