Beyond SPF

How do pigment-prone skin types differ when it comes to UV protection?

Pigment-prone skin is often type III or IV. These skin types not only need to protect themselves against UV rays, but also against visible light - especially blue light (HEVL). Although this does not cause skin cancer, it can increase pigmentation via free radicals. Classic sun protection products do not cover visible light - tinted formulations are useful here.

Once you have pigmentation problems, it can be challenging to reduce them. How can lasers or peels help?

Not all facial pigmentation is the same. Sun-induced spots (so-called solar lentigines) can be excellently treated with laser. Mask-like pigmentation such as melasma, on the other hand, cannot. These fade over time if UV and blue light protection is used consistently - for example with tinted sun protection products or make-up above SPF. Regularly applied leave-on peels with alpha hydroxy acids can also lighten the skin slightly.

Is sun damage generally repairable?

Prevention remains the be-all and end-all. Slight sun damage can be repaired as the skin has a very good DNA repair program. For severely damaged cells, it has mechanisms to remove them from circulation. Care is definitely important, especially after spending time in the sun, but has hardly any therapeutic effects itself. The situation is different with targeted active ingredient care, for example with niacinamide, which also excellently stabilizes a sun-damaged skin barrier.

There are always discussions: Does sun protection affect vitamin D production...?

Surprisingly, studies show that sunscreen users often have higher vitamin D levels than non-users - presumably because they spend more time in the sun overall. I think it makes sense to occasionally expose small areas of skin to the sun without protection. In winter, vitamin D should be supplemented, as sun exposure is not sufficient.

According to studies, vitamin D deficiency is associated with higher mortality than skin cancer. How do you assess this?

I believe that it is not so much vitamin D as the sun itself that plays a role here. Epidemiological studies show that although fair-skinned people in sunny countries develop skin cancer more frequently, they live longer overall. On the one hand, this is probably due to the positive effects of sunlight on overall health, particularly on the cardiovascular system. On the other hand, although skin cancer is the most common cancer, it is far behind in the mortality statistics, which is correct. Cardiovascular, metabolic, internal cancers and neurodegenerative diseases are much more common causes of death.

What role do you think AI will play in the future?

Artificial intelligence will become an important tool in dermatology and product development. It can identify new combinations of active ingredients, especially in complex SPF formulations. However, whether a product is compatible with the skin will continue to be determined in practice.

Are there any innovations in the field of sun protection that you think are particularly promising?

I hope that the focus of effective sun protection will increasingly turn to nature. Plants also need to protect themselves from UV rays and are developing excellent protective mechanisms for this purpose. These are already being used to some extent in sun protection. A trend that will hopefully continue.